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Konten disediakan oleh Steven Dimmitt. Semua konten podcast termasuk episode, grafik, dan deskripsi podcast diunggah dan disediakan langsung oleh Steven Dimmitt atau mitra platform podcast mereka. Jika Anda yakin seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta Anda tanpa izin, Anda dapat mengikuti proses yang diuraikan di sini https://id.player.fm/legal.
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast explicit
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Konten disediakan oleh Steven Dimmitt. Semua konten podcast termasuk episode, grafik, dan deskripsi podcast diunggah dan disediakan langsung oleh Steven Dimmitt atau mitra platform podcast mereka. Jika Anda yakin seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta Anda tanpa izin, Anda dapat mengikuti proses yang diuraikan di sini https://id.player.fm/legal.
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 4M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
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continue reading
352 episode
Tandai semua (belum/sudah) diputar ...
Manage series 2638497
Konten disediakan oleh Steven Dimmitt. Semua konten podcast termasuk episode, grafik, dan deskripsi podcast diunggah dan disediakan langsung oleh Steven Dimmitt atau mitra platform podcast mereka. Jika Anda yakin seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta Anda tanpa izin, Anda dapat mengikuti proses yang diuraikan di sini https://id.player.fm/legal.
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 4M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
…
continue reading
352 episode
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life 2:39:35
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Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.be The NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Tindeq 👉 tindeq.com (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order) The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessens Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:57) – The North Pole (00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood (00:22:38) – Early climbing (00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs (00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain (00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives (00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance (00:57:24) – A healing sabatical (01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued (01:10:20) – Meditation (01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method (01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain (01:27:39) – Happiness within (01:33:55) – Meditation continued (01:38:45) – Love (01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences (01:48:52) – Long covid (01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training (02:02:53) – Visualization (02:09:24) – Low-load training (02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control (02:12:41) – Recovery tips (02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation (02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing (02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude (02:30:31) – Closing questions…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science 1:23:14
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Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study , exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalie Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:03) – Keith’s background (00:10:05) – Natalie’s background (00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study (00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs” (00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective (00:22:41) – Exciting new studies (00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”? (00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol? (00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness (00:57:00) – Recommendations (01:06:03) – A cautionary tale (01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics (01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity? (01:15:42) – Summary (01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies (01:19:25) – Wrap up…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight) 29:23
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Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out? Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodin Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment (00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing) (00:20:07) – High-Low training (00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity (The following topics are available for Patrons only) (00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice (00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments (00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up (00:44:35) – Building your own board (00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall (00:52:05) – Climbing shoes (00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment (01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment (01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss (01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging (01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights (01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro (01:24:19) – Rekindled psych…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More 2:18:38
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Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more. Maui Nui Venison: mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Donate to Sacred Rok: Directly 👉 sacredrok.org Via The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:14) – Chickens (00:06:18) – El Salto (00:07:36) – Outline of topics (00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days (00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips (00:30:05) – How to continue progressing (00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine (00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause (00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers (01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore (01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid (01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk (01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food (01:39:07) – Farm to school (01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition (01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources (01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking (02:02:10) – Seed oils (02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions (02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard (02:15:18) – Wrap up…
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1 EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama 1:55:58
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Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym , the importance of respecting your body, and much more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget-club 👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning. Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing (00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams (00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead (00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b) (00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers (00:30:08) – The Needles (00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil (00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins (00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time (00:49:59) – The Winnebago (00:52:50) – Making climbing holds (00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch (01:05:11) – City of Rocks (01:10:24) – Drawing the line (01:16:12) – Old school bolting (01:24:40) – Riggins (01:28:08) – Hideous Thing (01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing (01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym (01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days (01:43:13) – Listen to your body (01:46:17) – Respect your body (01:47:50) – What excites Tony…
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1 EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World 1:51:36
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Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget-club 👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning. Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’ (00:05:13) – Rock Stars (00:07:26) – Adam as a kid (00:15:14) – Unfinished business (00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects (00:23:50) – Untapped potential (00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As (00:31:17) – The Imhotep project (00:39:55) – Training for long boulders (00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing (00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado (00:48:40) – Patxi training (00:51:07) – Modern comp routes (00:54:29) – Feelings about comps (00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps (01:05:41) – The Olympics (01:07:40) – Speed climbing (01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall (01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics (01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock (01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career (01:32:50) – The monster within (01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes (01:38:50) – 8a at 80 (01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale (01:41:59) – Finger size (01:45:09) – Hugo (01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things (01:48:15) – What’s next (01:49:21) – Wrap up…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America 2:40:47
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Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard. Tindeq: tindeq.com Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:09) – Chiloé Island (00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching (00:06:30) – The Air Force (00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time (00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force (00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly (00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing (00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training (00:35:20) – India (00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids (00:53:54) – Sofia (00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile (00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn (01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer (01:06:46) – The complexity of strength (01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing (01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout (01:26:36) – Example training week (01:30:02) – Consistency & intention (01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process (01:47:27) – Believing in yourself (01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions (02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late (02:05:28) – How to find your passion (02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project (02:22:37) – Future plans (02:24:02) – Favorite training music (02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes (02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual (02:28:43) – Favorite rock type (02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016 (02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film (02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations (02:35:59) – Photography (02:38:04) – Patagonia (02:38:54) – Follow your dream…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path 2:00:13
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Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more. Maui Nui Venison: mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ron Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:01) – Fish sticks (00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other (00:15:08) – Threads & identity (00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules (00:31:15) – Follow your heart (00:43:32) – Vision Quest (00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing (01:01:02) – The essence (01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force (01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering (01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers (01:30:39) – Flow & precision (01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line (01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom (01:46:31) – Le Blonde (01:48:19) – Motivation (01:54:04) – A good feeling (01:56:24) – Mother Earth (01:57:37) – A personal path (01:58:49) – Wrap up…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism 2:30:24
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Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget 👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caroline-ciavaldini Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:32) – Growing up in La Réunion (00:07:14) – How Caro started climbing (00:09:25) – Early competing (00:14:03) – Her mom’s suicide (00:21:29) – Mental coaching (00:25:27) – Magic & selfishness (00:37:42) – Competition vs. outdoor skills (00:46:18) – Eating disorders & food obsession (00:54:37) – Recovery & satiety (01:01:13) – Becoming adventurous (01:08:09) – Trad moments (01:15:43) – Trips with Yuji Hirayama (01:20:38) – Discussing hard things with kids (01:24:42) – Paradoxes & genetics (01:30:25) – Yellow (01:36:41) – Le Voyage & retraining fear (01:44:24) – Naming emotions (01:48:45) – Gentle feminism (01:58:07) – Women’s cycles (02:03:28) – Menopause & aging in climbing (02:13:20) – The struggles of a pro athlete (02:21:31) – House projects & side hustles (02:26:22) – Wrap up…
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1 EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing 2:01:53
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Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget 👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks (00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing (00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays (00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love (00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing (00:26:03) – Book of Hate (00:31:11) – Planet Earth (00:33:39) – The first cell phones (00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness (00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing (00:54:15) – The vision of new routing (00:56:52) – A new area in Baja (01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40 (01:13:44) – Almost drowning (01:21:50) – Aging gracefully (01:27:54) – Hallux limitus (01:34:24) – Getting remodeled (01:39:21) – Piloting (01:49:55) – More route development (01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon (01:56:26) – Time (02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore 38:53
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Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more. Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviews Or skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing 1:45:53
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Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing . How You Can Help: https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. Crimpd: crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:26) – Fahrenheit (00:03:09) – Australian bolting system (00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978 (00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues (00:18:36) – Formative experiences (00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan (00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style (00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles (00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught (00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles (01:20:00) – How we can help (01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation (01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities (01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up…
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1 EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G. 3:08:00
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Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey. Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget 👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide. Crimpd: crimpd.com Or download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkin Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:57) – How I met Sol (00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots (00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW (00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth (00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea (00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing (00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain (00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer (00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things (00:54:43) – Short of breath (00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2 (01:03:33) – E-bikes (01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication (01:21:54) – Chylothorax (01:25:15) – The early stages of dying (01:28:39) – Surgery 3 (01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged (01:36:40) – Bonus life (01:41:55) – A final hurdle (01:52:32) – Every day is a gift (01:54:14) – Sailing (02:01:06) – Replacing climbing (02:08:48) – Goals (02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism (02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore (02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing (02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering (02:34:38) – What’s next (02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing (02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets (03:06:19) – Let’s go!…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier 2:23:22
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Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more. Buy Stian's Book: adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuries Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget 👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard. Tindeq: tindeq.com Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious (00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing (00:11:55) – Outline of topics (00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries (00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries (00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable (00:29:13) – Lifting weights (00:31:04) – The Japanese approach (00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries (00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols? (00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries (00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training (01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity (01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury (01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery (01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries? (01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries (01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within (01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries (01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries? (01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury (01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing (01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds (02:01:08) – Individual finger training (02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves (02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries (02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain (02:13:20) – Mindset tips (02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent (02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book…
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The Nugget Climbing Podcast


1 EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s 3:55:26
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Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle . We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard. Tindeq: tindeq.com Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast (00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’ (00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency (00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle (00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety (00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume (00:41:08) – Tree crimping (00:43:50) – Almost daily training (00:49:08) – The basics (01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions (01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches (01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game (01:24:43) – Finger training (01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14) (01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs (01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s (01:59:54) – Taking short breaks (02:02:56) – Daydreaming (02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail (02:13:27) – One thing at a time (02:17:19) – Writing books (02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11 (02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts (02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict (02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet (02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood (02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health (03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto (03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto (03:19:36) – Energy & weight management (03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol (03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors (03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol (03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research (03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book…
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